Alternator Refurbishment/Rebuild

Alternator Refurbishment/Rebuild


I have an alternator for a cbx 750 that needs the field coil replacing but I haven’t found anyone that will specifically rewind and rebuild alternators. Anyone know of a place that can refurbish them in or around Galway? Would be willing to travel a bit further a field if needs be.

Thanks in advance.

Source: Alternator Refurbishment/Rebuild

Alternative Running-in Technique

Alternative Running-in Technique

How’ya lads.

I’m looking at buying an MT10 in the next week or two and if I do, it will be my first ever brand new bike.

I was reading the FZ10/MT10 forum to try find out in advance what the running in period is like on it… I came across this post which criticizes manufacturer running in techniques and promotes another. I’m hoping some of the more mechanically experienced lads might give their opinion on it. So hear it is….

There are many opinions and methods. I use a version of the motoman break in method. You can read about it here

The theory is that factories recommend soft break in procedures for reasons of rider safety . They wisely pretend that everyone who buys their bikes are brand new idiot riders, for legal reasons. This is also one of the reasons why USA bikes often have less power than European models, as well as for emission laws.

If you have a brand new unridden bike, 3-6 miles on the bike, then this is MY opinion on how to break it in properly. I say my opinion because if you try this and then pull out in front of a semi and get yourself killed, your family cannot sue me. Take this for what it’s worth.

This is ideally done away from traffic on a track or on a country road. Start the bike, do not rev it!! let it warm up no more than 30 seconds.

Take off and rev it to at least 3000 rpm or more in ea gear quickly. AVOID RUNNING AT THE SAME RPM! Run the hell out of it for the first 20 miles. Revving up to 5-6000 rpm and then let off the gas and let it decel down, up to 6000 rpm, let it decel down. Do this for the first twenty miles.

At or around 20 miles on the odometer. Drain the oil, change the filter. Refill with non synthetic.

the first 600 miles, be very careful not to run at the same constant RPM level . Let it rev up a few hundred rpms, back down a few hundred rpm’s. Not enough to piss off the car behind you, just little throttle adjustments.

The idea is to let the rings seat and work into the cylinders properly, to avid oil blowby later on after break in.

Change oil and filter again at 600 miles.

Ride normally the next 600miles, change oil and filter again at 1200 miles. Then, switch to factory recommended intervals.

Using this method, I have had numerous bikes last well over 100,000 miles. One of my old bikes was sold to a guy five years ago and he is still running original engine at 158,000 miles on it.

Again, this is just what i do, it’s just my opinion and differs from “other” break in methods. It’s also slightly different from the motorman method listed above.

The worst things you can do to an engine.

1.Baby the engine during break in, especially the first 20 miles. Get on a track or country road and ride it like you stole it.

2.Letting it idle too much in the first 20 miles. Let it warm up for like a minute max. Dont ever rev it while it is in neutral. LEt it warm up for like a minute, maybe two and take off.

3. Riding at the same rpm during the first 600 miles. A new engine needs the wide range of rpm’s, dont pin it and leave it there either. Rev up, rev down. Avoid the highway first 600 miles.

4.Revving it while it is just sitting there. Stupid and it’s horrible for your bike. Revi it while it is moving only!

Read the motoman link above at the beginning of this thread.

Why dont factories recommend this in the manual? Again, they want you to ride new bikes very carefully for legal reasons. They are afraid that some idiot will try this and get run over by the car behind them on a busy street by revving down. Also, (again this is just my opinion) but what would happen to their sales if all their bikes suddenly started lasting over 150,000 miles? Right…

Source: Alternative Running-in Technique

JOG Tuning

JOG Tuning

Got a QS fitted by John during the week & I have to recommend him for his service & value for job done.

TBH, he under valued his time. I’ll leave it at that!

For anyone that doesn’t know him, he’s based near Tralee/Castleisland (Limk/Kerry area). An ex road racer (sons still track race)

Proper Dyno set up.

100% recommend.


Source: JOG Tuning

Yamaha Thundercat – jerky at midrange

Yamaha Thundercat – jerky at midrange

Hi All,

As the title suggests I have a thundercat (yes its and actual bike lol). Its jerky in the midrange for most gears (1-4) and wont accelerate properly in 5th and 6th.

Running from 1-5k rpms is perfect, great bike around town but once Im on the motorway its a pig.

I’ve to drive in 4th at 11,000 rpm or else in 5th/6th at approx 7/8 rpm but jerky as fuck. I took the bike as a part trade against my X11 so I’ve very little history of the bike.

I have changed the oil and filter and the coolant -something I always do on any bike i get. I will be going at this on the weekend just want to get a direction on where to start and if there has been anyone with the same issue.

Oh and shes at 65,000 kms

[ Im thinking its a fuel issue – but will be checking the coils and plugs etc]

Source: Yamaha Thundercat – jerky at midrange

Honda Vision 50 derestrict

Honda Vision 50 derestrict

A mate of mine lives in Bray can anyone recommend someone in that area to derestrict his Honda Vision 50. He’s only getting max speed 50kph and wants to go a bit faster:lbhbh:

Wouldn’t say any official Honda dealers would do it because I don’t know how legal or insurance company friendly this will be but that’s his problem I suppose:thumbsup2:

Source: Honda Vision 50 derestrict

Honda CV Carb – anybody know there way round them ?

Honda CV Carb – anybody know there way round them ?

Long story – kind of stuck on getting the Cb450 running right. She’s a ’72 bike;, with the original Keihin CV Carbs. Complex bloody things – made worse by 45 years of wear and tear. I’ve stripped the carbs and cleaned them – many times – and rebuilt them with new gaskets and jet kits.

Where they’re at currently is the bike starts and runs ok, pulls really well from the midrange and on up – but – the air mixture screw still isn’t working properly on one side. Makes it hard to get a smooth idle, and to me, the bike feels lumpy and generally unhappy pulling off idle. Not the worst problem in the world, but it’s bugging me that it’s not right,

According to the manual:

“Next, adjust your “air/mixture screws”. Usually, 3/4 turn out from full in will be a good place to start. Adjust back and forth for maximum rpm, on each carb. If you end up at some extreme, like all the way in or 3 or 4 turns out, you have a problem somewhere in the carb – probably indicates a good cleaning is in order. These carbs must be kept scrupulously clean to work properly.”

One side works as described above – but on the other, the screw does bugger all until it’s almost all the way home, and then you get maximum rpm when it’s fully closed.

I’ve swapped the needles around, put the old ones back in, tested the damn thing for air leaks by spraying carb cleaner on the outside, but can’t make any headway at all – the screw on that side just doesn’t seem to be adjust the mixture the way it should.

Anybody any pointers or steers on anything else to try from here ?

Source: Honda CV Carb – anybody know there way round them ?